Undercover "SCAB" (s/s 2003)

Heavily deconstructed, patched up DIY. Undercover's Paris debut was largely made up of pieces that look like you could make them at home but the attention to detail is Jun's saving grace, what appeals to me most about this collection is the departure from crust punk to a different sort of urban tribe with its own implied idiosyncrasies and semiotics: the enigmatic logos and symbols, the combination of industrial and dark with very bright, colorful "folk" embroidering and patterns.